• problems, observations & advice -
  
  

After a couple of 'near misses' - and worries about turning at night, in rain or other poor conditions - you've decided that it's time to fit some bright indicators to your Austin 7. Although the whole system is perfectly straightforward, a number of people, especially those new to Austin7s, have asked for advice, so I hope that these simple notes will help them - and you -  though the process and result in bright indicators that will be visible to other drivers in all conditions.

The indicators need to flash between 60 and 120 times a minute but, where to mount them? Obviously, the ideal is high up and as widely spaced as possible - but in many cases this is almost impossible and some compromise has to be made. On an Austin 7 built before 1932, and using the original lights, some form of brackets at both front and back will be necessary. In the photographs are shown the various shapes and mounting of brackets that might be helpful. On a Box saloon, Ruby, or other late version with both rear-wings carrying tail and stop lamps, the indicators can often be combined inside those with various specialists offering such conversions that obviate the need for separate indicators. Some people have even fitted the indicators inside the headlamps, using special dual-purpose, white/orange LEDs.

On a 6-volt system LED bulbs are a really good idea - but so often they suffer from interference from the ignition system and/or dynamo. The flashers work when the engine is not running but then refuse to work at all, or flash too fast or too slowly. Other A7 owners have had an LED installation work perfectly with the engine running, but stopped when the brakes lights came on.

One of my cars runs a 6-volt LEDs system with no problems at all (and without any form of suppression on the ignition circuit). On another, as soon as the dynamo was charging, the indicators refused to work. So, to that vehicle, I've fitted a small motorcycle 12-volt "gell" battery, clamped down on its side under the passenger seat and used it to power 12-volt, 21-watt bulbs fired by an ordinary 3-pin electro-mechanical unit. The result has been very bright indicators, visible even in strong sunlight.

Another option might be to use a 6-volt to 12-volt step-up transformer, like this, or similar. It is limited to 3 amps and, as two 21-watt bubs on 12 volts draw 3.5 amps, it might refuse to work or fail prematurely - though it would work with LED bulbs of course) 

On both 6 and 12-volts, it's a really good idea to wire the indicators - live and earth - directly to the battery through a separate fused circuit. This ensures maximum brightness and also ease of trouble-shooting should things go wrong.

The units I've used on my older cars are the standard type now sold for many years - a mini "Rubber Light" that comes with a set of simple right-angle brackets. I've fitted these to PL3002 on auxiliary brackets secured to the front wing stays and, at the back, on the number-plate support arm. Willie McKenzie has the flashers as a complete kit on this page: http://austinrepro.com/headlamps/  .... though you may find them cheaper on eBay. An alternative - though very expensive - might be this one

Rather than the large switch provided with the comprehensive Willie McKenzie kit, I've used a small, less conspicuous almost 'vintage-looking' one or, this might be a solution, a switch with a short, illuminated stalk. 

Connected to the system (from the third terminal on the flasher unit) it is a warning buzzer (this, or a light, is a legal requirement) that works on 6 volts - even though it's meant for 12.  https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/p-637-cab-buzzer?search=buzzer.

Connected to the same circuit as the buzzer is a tiny, but very bright LED light that's really easy to fit anywhere - mine is just trapped against the small panel I made to hold the indicator switch. On eBay, just search for "6-volt grain-of-wheat LEDs" and you'll find them available in various colours.

To keep things looking neat and tidy and as hidden away as possible, if you make a small bracket to carry the switch (like the one shown below bolted to the underside of the glove pocket) it can also be made long enough to carry, on its underside, both the flasher unit and the buzzer - these being secured with doubled-sided tape or Velcro. With the latter, and long enough cables, if any parts fails it's a simple job to just pull it off and replace.

With ordinary bulbs, it's essential to use a standard electro-mechanical flasher unit with 3 terminals. Don't use an electronic flasher unit; although some sellers claim that they work with ordinary bulbs - or even a mixture of those and LEDs - experience shows that often they don't.

Standard electro-mechanical 6 and 12-volt flasher units are supplied by this company with a smaller motorcycle-type one also available.

What wire to use? Two 21-watt bulbs on 6 volts means 7 amps will need to be carried. Here are two sources of suitable wire with descriptions of their current capacity. Fist, ordinary modern twin-core cable: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/twin-core-thinwall-cable and secondly, a modern wire, but cotton braid wrapped to give it a 'vintage'look https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/braided-multicore-cable.
You can read more about the tails and tribulations of fitting indicators in this article on the Austin Seven Friends' Forum.

If you have any observations about fitting and using indicators, or can contribute photographs showing other mounting solutions, the writer will be pleased to hear from you.